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The Iso-Hiisijärvi trail in Etelä-Sydänmaa

24/11/2021

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The soft bubbling of black grouse drifts in from the distance as I sling my camera bag onto my back. I've packed a video camera and recorder, a microphone, an action camera, a drone, a sound recorder, a DSLR and a couple of lenses. There was just about room left in the bag for a flask of coffee, a water bottle

The soft bubbling of black grouse drifts in from the distance as I sling my camera bag onto my back. I've packed a video camera and recorder, a microphone, an action camera, a drone, a sound recorder, a DSLR and a couple of lenses. There was just about room left in the bag for a flask of coffee, a water bottle and a few snacks. Perhaps that would see me through this beautiful autumn day of filming.

I don't have to walk far along the path to Hiisijärvi before I have to stop and film. Along the path through the big forest there are old silver snags and stumps – it's truly magnificent old-growth forest. The path conveniently winds through little hollows and over hills. Soon Mustajärvi peeks out from behind the hill, and of course I have to leave the path to film it.

Brand-new duckboards begin at the end of Mustajärvi, making for easy walking. An open view unfolds across the lake, and I find myself wondering whether I should come back with my camera when the northern lights are out. The view to the north would be perfect for an aurora photo, and the lake surface would give beautiful reflections.

The duckboards lead out onto an open bog. A gentle breeze blows from the north, and the sedges sway softly in the wind. The dwarf birch leaves have turned red in the autumn colours. The silence is complete. It really feels like being in the wilderness, even though in fact I'm less than a kilometre from the car. From the duckboards I launch the drone to get a wider view of the area. Small forested islets rise from the vast bogs like islands in the middle of the sea. Broadleaf trees dyed bright with autumn colours, and an orange-tinted bog. The autumn colours are at their most beautiful right now, and the low morning sunlight brings out the depth of the view even more. And there's not another hiker in sight yet…

The path leads through small forested islets to a larger heath. This area was probably logged a few decades ago, but now dense forest is already growing here. The many tits were probably disturbed by my arrival, as their alarm calls ring out from all around. Or could there be a hawk nearby? After I stop for a moment things settle down, and soon a few willow tits and crested tits flit into the next tree in search of food – there is still enough old forest here to provide them with a home.

I climb up the path, and soon the old Hiisijärvi logging cabin flickers into view between the spruces. The Maaselän latu club has taken on the cabin to restore it. The building work still seems to be under way, but once it's finished it will be a wonderful place to stop off during a hike. Maybe I should come along to a cabin work party some time?

I arrive at the shore of Hiisijärvi from the north. It's a fine lake, whose distinctive feature is a long headland reaching into it – almost an island. Only a narrow, boggy isthmus leads to the hill rising at the end of the headland. I can't resist visiting the headland before heading to the cabin on the lakeshore.

The isthmus leading to the headland is scattered with swan feathers. A pair of swans has surely nested here, and what better place could there be? A peaceful wilderness lake, little disturbance and plenty of food. I'll have to come back next summer to see the swans.

From the hill on the headland there are wonderful views over the lake and the bogs and forests around it. I feel grateful that not a single summer cottage has been built here, so you can come and enjoy the silence of nature and the stunning views.

I force myself to leave this lovely headland. Just as I reach the edge of the bog, I see a herd of wild forest reindeer heading straight towards me. I try to film them, but of course I have a wide-angle lens on the camera and haven't even brought a longer one. I settle for admiring the herd, led by a big antlered male, and soon it disappears to the south.

The forest reindeer's migration towards their winter grazing grounds is clearly already under way. After a few hours of walking and filming, I make use of the campfire site by the Hiisijärvi sauna for a snack break.

It's time to head back, and on the way I start meeting other people. We chat for a while, and it turns out these hikers had come from further afield. There's certainly room to hike in peace here.

A V of cranes flies across the blue sky, bidding farewell to summer. Soon snow will blanket this landscape, so next time I'll need to bring skis or snowshoes…